Look again at the photograph of the Oregon coastline at Ecola State Park at the

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Question

Look again at the photograph of the Oregon coastline at Ecola State Park at the beginning of this chapter.

A) The distance from shore where waves break varies along this stretch of coastline. Why?

B) Where along this coastline is wave erosion strongest? Why?

C) Where does it appear that most of the coastal sediment is being deposited?

D) What explains this?

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Explanation / Answer

1) The waves which break varies along the coastline primarily because of the curvature of the coastline which causes the variation in the energy level of the sea waves encountering the coast. Also due to the various obstructions encountered by the waves in different sectors are very much prominent. These are the reasons for which the broken wave varies along the coastline.

2)The wave causes most of the erosional activity in the region where it has maximum velocity and the place where it is in contact with the sediment. Therefore in the region of midshore to frontshore there is maximum contact of the waves to that of the surface and hence the erosional activity is maximum there.

3) The eroded sediment after picking it up from the front shore region is transferred by the waves to the backshore region where the energy of the minimum and hence are unable to transport the sediments any further. Therefore there is no option but to deposit the sediments there at the backshore region.

4) These phenomenon of the various of energy levels in the waves explains about the stratification of the sediments in various segments of the beach. This stratification is completely dependent on the amount of the energy contained in the waves and the amount of sediments carried by the waves with a lot of variation in the conditions laterally.

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