1. A surfboard slides downward on the face of a wave. The steepness of the wave

Question

1. A surfboard slides downward on the face of a wave. The steepness of the wave face is governed by the decrease of L (wavelength) and the increase of H (wave height) as the wave slows in shallow water. How must the surfer adjust the board in order to stay on the face of the wave as the wave approaches shallow water?

2. Locate a small pond or pool and drop a stone into it. Describe what happens (1) to an individual wave and (2) to the group of waves. Try to determine the group speed and the individual wave speed.

3. Drop two stones into the pond at a short distance from each other. Describe what happens when the wave rings produced by the two stones pass through each other. Do the heights of the waves change when they intersect? Do the wave trains pass through each other and continue on?

Explanation / Answer

1.The surfer should move his weight slightly forward on the board, This will increase his speed and allows him stay in the face of the wave as the wave is steep.

2. Individual wave ripples ina circular direction.

When two or more waves interact and combine, they interfere with one another. resulting in a wave larger than the original waves. or a wave smaller than the original ones.

Wave speed=distance traveled/ time taken

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