Exercise #5-waves and Tides (20 points) Part A. Calculating wave characteristics

Question

Exercise #5-waves and Tides (20 points) Part A. Calculating wave characteristics. Scale (m) 0 1 2 3 4 1. In the figure, what is the wave height (H) and wavelength (L), in meters? Label these on the figure above. (1 pt) 2. Describe how you could determine the wave period. (1 pt) Calculate the wave steepness (H/L). Be sure to show your work and units. Would this theoretical wave break in the open deep ocean far from land? Why or why not? (1 pt) 3. 4. What would happen to the wave height and wavelength of this wave as it approached shore? Be specific. (1 pt)

Explanation / Answer

Part a)

Wavelength is the distance in which a wave repeats its shape. it can also be calculated as the distance between two crests(peaks) or two troughs(lows). Here, as per the distance calculated through scale in the image the scale provided says 0.5 cm = 1 m. Measuring the wavelength, it is about 3.8 cm = 7.6 metres (I would ask you to calculate using scale on your own as well since there could b measurement difference in images).

The Height is around 0.5 cm which is 1 metre as per scale.

Therefore, the wavelength , L is 7.6 metres and Height is 1 metre

Part b) Wave Period an be calculated using the frequency of the wave which is the number of times a wave completes a cycle in a given period of time. The reciprocal of frequency is wave Period ( 1/frequency = wave period). Also, wave period can aslo be calculated using wavelength and velocity of wave. Wavelength/Velocity = wave period

Part c) Wave Steepness = H/L

In part a we calculated H as 1 metre and L as 7.6 metres. So dividing, we get 1/7.6 or 0.13. This does not have any units because metres/metres gives no units.

Generally, there are three critria for a braking wave to form :

A wave breaks when it is closer to the land because the bottom of wave is disturbed by the land. Therefore, the wave will not break as it moves towards the ocean. The wave does not satisfy any criteria for a breaking wave to be created.

Part d) As the wave approaches shore, the wavelength decreases and the wave height increases. This leads to increase in steepness causing wave to break.

When the waves move towards shallower waters, the wave starts to feel the seabed. The lower part of the wave run nto the seafloor. This forces the wave to grow upwards, so wave height increases. The base of the wave is slowed down by friction against the sea bottom, while the top of the wave rushes ahead, so the wave crest begins to lean more and more forward increasing the wavelength until it topples over, and breaks on the shore.

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